It is, somehow, Thursday, Nov. 7. Put in the context of a Big Meals Calendar — which hangs upon the walls of my mind next to Post-its of childhood phone numbers and the lyrics to “Burn” by Usher — we are exactly three weeks from Thanksgiving.

Yes, Thanksgiving. I blinked, and asparagus gave way to strawberries that gave way to zucchini that gave way to tomatoes that gave way to brussels sprouts. Time beats on like a college drum line.

What to do with the brussels sprouts, then? Put them on your Friendsgiving table, for one. November potlucks are an opportunity to test-drive any dishes you’ve bookmarked for the holiday. But they are just as much a chance to make whatever the heck you want, what I like to call my “That sounds really good” folder of recipes.

Friendsgiving needn’t be a facsimile of Norman Rockwell’s “Freedom From Want” (which, if you look closely, features a platter of unadorned celery stalks — what was that about?). It can be Yasmin Fahr’s five-star roasted brussels sprouts Caesar with tahini (above), Carolina Gelen’s smoky spiced eggplant dip and David Tanis’s showy baked polenta with roasted mushrooms, all nestled tightly on a coffee table.

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With my own Friendsgiving only 11 days away, I’m trying to cobble together a menu on which Andy Baraghani’s charred cabbage with miso brown butter can shine. The good news is I can’t quite fathom a spread that wouldn’t benefit from its frizzled, smoky edges and savory sauce. The better news is neither can you: “This would go well with almost anything,” wrote a reader.

And that’s not to mention its ease; a short cook time and minimal effort free you up for a few more sides and a slightly more involved centerpiece, like Andy’s caramelized onion, cranberry and rosemary tachin, the stunning Persian rice dish on which he has bestowed some common Thanksgiving flavor profiles.

But at Friendsgiving, there are few established norms, few mandates beyond “eat with pals.” You don’t have to provide a feast of a dozen dishes. You can instead make something hearty that needs little more than some rice or flatbread, or both, by its side. This butternut, tamarind and coconut stew from Yotam Ottolenghi’s cookbook “Ottolenghi Comfort” and Naz Deravian’s vegetable-packed butternut squash sambar are satisfying, vegan ways to showcase a diamond of the season.

Or make like Norman and throw some celery on the table. But I’d wager that Alexa Weibel’s celery salad with apples and blue cheese or Alison Roman’s buttered stuffing with celery and leeks would go quicker.

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View this recipe.

View this recipe.

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